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The World's Top Ten National Parks

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Machu Picchu Historic Sanctuary. Rick Smith photo.

Machu Picchu Historic Sanctuary. One of the world's top ten national parks? Photo by Rick Smith.

Most Traveler readers know that Yellowstone National Park is considered to be the world’s first national park. Some, though, might not know that more than 130 nations have established parks or protected areas within their boundaries.

The International Union for the Conservation of Nature counts more than 100,000 such areas around the world. Some of these areas are inscribed in the United Nation’s list of World Heritage or Biosphere Reserve sites.

Since it is unlikely than anyone will ever visit all 100,000, we want to invite all Traveler readers to help us pick the best national parks or other protected areas outside the United States. I am going to start the process by letting you know what five of mine are. For each of your areas, please submit a brief description of the resources of the area and the circumstances of your visit. We are going to let this run for a little while to see if we can’t figure out what the best 10 or 15 are from your point of view. The one rule is that you have to have visited the area.

Fiordland National Park, New Zealand

I was blown away by this park. We took a boat trip on Milford Sound. The waterfalls, the glaciers, and the fiords were spectacular. Although we only visited the sound, there are 14 fiords that define the shoreline of this World Heritage Site. I visited Fiordland following the 4th World Congress of the International Ranger Federation, held in Wilsons Promontory National Park in Victoria, Australia. It was interesting to be in a park where elk are considered an exotic species and need to be eliminated. This is one gift to New Zealand from President Theodore Roosevelt that didn’t turn out so well as there are no natural predators in New Zealand to control the elk population.

Kruger National Park, South Africa

This is perhaps the most impressive wildlife viewing area in the world. Millions of acres of habitat and little development give visitors an opportunity to see many large African mammals and magnificent birds. It is one of the few places where wildlife is in charge – they wander free and the visitors are controlled. I stayed here for a week during the 3rd World Congress of the International Ranger Federation. I found it a bit unsettling to be locked inside a compound at night, but as one of my South African ranger colleagues pointed out, “There are lots of things out there that want to eat you.”

Tikal National Park, Guatemala

This World Heritage Site contains the spectacular ruins of a Maya settlement from around 250 – 900 AD. The towering ruins of temples, one 70 meters tall, rising from the jungle that surrounds them, are mute testimony to the architectural genius of the Maya. As many as 90,000 people lived in Tikal at its zenith, but strife with neighboring towns and environmental stress caused its abandonment beginning in the 10th century. Of course, the Maya never left; they are there today, and it’s a thrill to visit it with a Maya guide. During a family trip to Belize and Guatemala, our guide was one of the rangers on the staff at Tikal. The park was holding a training session for some of its rangers and the superintendent asked me to stop by to say a few words to the class. I talked a little bit about how important it was for them to know that they were a part of an international family of rangers dedicated to protecting and preserving the world’s natural and cultural patrimony. They seemed to get it.

Kaieteur National Park, Guyana

I had the great good fortune to prepare a World Heritage nomination for this spectacular area several years ago. I understand its nomination is on hold due to internal political problems. At the time of the nomination, it was Guyana’s only national park. The center piece of the park is a magnificent waterfall that drops 226 meters, five times the height of Niagara. The surrounding rain forest was largely pristine and contained the normal biodiversity of this ecosystem. I saw my only cock-of-the-rock there, a brightly colored bird that hangs out in tropical forests. I did most of my research in Georgetown, the capital of the country, a city that sits below sea level protected by dikes. The original Dutch settlers knew how to build dikes.

Machu Picchu Historic Sanctuary, Peru

I have visited Machu Picchu three times, the first time in 1969 when I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Paraguay and the last in 2008 when I visited the site with my wife. I was impressed with how much better control there is of visitation now than when I first visited. Only a certain number of people are allowed at any one time on the Inca Trail and there is a daily limit on the number of visitors allowed to climb Huayna Picchu, the peak that dominates the site. I also thought that the interpretation offered by the guides had improved considerably. They are all licensed by the government. Our guide slipped easily between Spanish and English and seemed to know Quechua also. The story of Machu Picchu is fascinating and he told it well.

OK, there are five of my favorites. Can you help us fill in five more blanks? If you have a great photo, send it along via email to [email protected] and we'll see about posting it.

Comments

Rick,

Yes, I've visited all three parks I mentioned above. But of course not as long as I would wish, particularly for the Cevennes, where I only got a glimpse, passing through.

As far as I know, the Wadden Sea National Parks have almost no dry land, so there is little private property inside the actual parks. The coast line is of course heavily used by tourism for much longer than the existence of the parks. The beaches are public, owned by the municipalities.

You can find a huge selection of images of the Wadden Sea under free licenses at http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Wadden_Sea (plus the subdirectories).

Regarding the Nationalpark Kalkalpen, the actual mountains are publicly owned, by the federal government of Austria. In the valleys I expect some private land and some owned by the state of Upper Austria and the municipalities. Maybe even some by the Catholic Church, as they own huge tracts of arable land in the general region.

Images:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hintergebirge_01.jpg
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datei:Sengsengebirge.jpg
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datei:Hintergebirge_03.jpg (the last one shows their "Grand Canyon")

And I have no idea about land ownership in the Cevennes. That park is the largest of those three, with several villages inside of the park. These and the land around is private. Some part of the National Park is a former military training range, that one probably is owned by the République française.

Images: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:C%C3%A9vennes


That's a great shot of the backpacker in the WAdden Sea photos. He looks very European.

Rick Smith


I have one more international park that is among my favorites.

IGUAZU N. P., Argentina

This World Heritage site protects one of the most spectacular natural landscapes in Argentina and Brazil, Iguazu Falls and the surrounding subtropical forest. The falls are 70 meters high, but even more impressive is their width: the river at the falls is 1500 meters wide. The short boat ride and walk along the catwalks to the most striking of the hundreds of falls, Garganta del Diablo, the Devil’s Throat, is a thrilling experience. The roar itself is an unforgettable experience. I visited this park when I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Paraguay. I saw it from the Argentine side, which at that time, was the less-developed side. I have not been back since that time so I am not sure what the situation is now. I do remember, however, that the Argentine rangers were very helpful and informative.

Rick Smith


I have to second Iquazu, it's just a stunning place on both sides of the border (http://tinyurl.com/bnx5xd)

I would also say Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. Really far south in Patagonia, you can see the huge pieces of ice falling off the Perito Moreno glacier, which is one of the few glaciers left in the world that is not receding. The backdrop of the Andes makes the enormous "river of ice" even more impressive. It's completely mind blowing. (http://tinyurl.com/dnhqne).

Am dying to see these others. Want to go to Machu Picchu next year and the others are on the list!


Ashley--

I hope to visit Los Glaciares sometime in the future. While you were there, did you meet a ranger who speaks good English by the name of Alejandro Caparros? Alex is a good friend. He was a volunteer ranger at Carlsbad Caverns when I was the superintendent there. He led most of our guided tours for Spanish-speaking groups that would come up from Mexico. He also broke a couplle of female seasonal rangers' hearts.

The glacier you mention is named after one of the earliest conservationists in Argtentina, Francisco Moreno. If I am not mistaken, his gift to the Argentine people in terms of land is now included in Nahuel Huapi National Park. Moreno donated the land to the Argentine people in 1903; the park was established in, I believe, 1934, making it Argentina's oldest national park.

Rick Smith


Have any of NPT's readers visited parks in Central America? Asia? The South Pacific? I have a couple favorites in Honduras--Copan, in Mexico--Montes Azules, El Triunfo and the Biosphere Reserve Mariposa Monarca, the end of one of the most incredible migrations in all of nature. The Monarch butterflies fly from their summer habitat in North America and end up in one small area in the state of Michoacan in Mexico. I had the good fortune to be in that reserve on the day the butterflies ended their 3-5,000 migration. When I looked to the sky, it looked as if it were snowing orange snowdrops. As they landed, the turned the pine trees absolutely orange. There were millions and millions of them arriving at approximately the same time and to the same place. It was absolutely the most stunning wildlife display that I ever seen in my life..

Costa Rica is justifiably proud of its many parks and protected areas. I have always liked Braulio Carrillo and Volcan Arenal. El Imposible NP in El Salvador, so named because it once was very difficult to get to, is another great area. So many places, so little time.

Rick Smith


opps--I meant 3-5,000 MILE migration. Sorry to have omitted the "mile".

Rick

Rick Smith


Hi Rick,

I didn't! But that would have been pretty serendipitous. If you do get a chance to check out Glaciares you should definitely take advantage. It is unbelievable. And if you can, take a quick flight down to Ushuaia and check out Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, too. Ruggedly beautiful.

As for Asia, I'm heading to Gunung Leuser NP on Sumatra in Indonesia in May to do some trekking and see the orangutans, but can't report on any others on that side of the world!

--Ashley


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