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One Climber Presumed Dead On Mount Rainier

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One climber on Mount Rainier in Washington state was presumed dead Monday, while rangers were able to reach two other individuals who took shelter at Camp Muir from a storm that has hampered rescue efforts.

The three were in two separate groups: two climbers, a man from Norway and a woman from Canada, in one, and a solo snowshoer from Washington state. The three were caught in a winter storm Saturday that brought blowing snow and temperatures down into the single digits, according to Mount Rainier National Park spokeswoman Patti Wold.

The two climbers had left Paradise on Thursday for the summit via Gibraltar Ledges. They had planned to overnight at Camp Muir at an elevation of 10,188 feet on Friday, said Ms. Wold, and push on to Rainier's 14,411-foot summit on Saturday.

"Private parties at Camp Muir reported overnight gear left there all day when no one returned to use it Saturday night," she wrote in a release. "The park initiated search operations Sunday morning. Sunday afternoon one member of the climbing party was seen descending from the Gibraltar Ledges route to Camp Muir. Several individuals assisted the climber back to the public shelter at Camp Muir. The climber, a 41-year old female Canadian, is reported to be alert and ambulatory."

Her companion was spotted from the air Monday near Gibraltar Ledges, Ms. Wold said during a phone call. She said he was presumed dead "because we had a 'copter up there and he did not respond to the rotor wash."

Climbing rangers were said to be en route to the man's location, she said.

The snowshoer had tried to reach Camp Muir on Saturday but was caught out in the storm. He signaled for help via a personal locator beacon, though he eventually was able to reach shelter at Camp Muir on Sunday.

Earlier Monday a helicopter was able to reach Camp Muir and transport the two to a hospital, where they were in stable condition, according to Ms. Wold.

Comments

The body of the missing climber has been recovered.  Norwegian Arvid Lahti, 58, was a very experienced climber who had summited Everest twice in one year by different routes:  http://www.thenewstribune.com/news/local/article69004122.html

It is unfortunately common for people to underestimate winter conditions high on Mount Rainier.  Ice pellets blowing horizontally at 80 mph can blind you, stop you in your tracks, and make it impossible to even unpack, let alone set up, a tent.  You can have just a few minutes to dig or chop a hole in the ice to survive.  Modern weather forecasting has improved enough that the park should consider suspending permits for winter climbing and the high camps when the forecast is severe.

Gibraltar Ledges are notorious for rockfall.  Hats off to the brave rescuers who risked their lives to bring this man down and may he rest in peace!


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