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Trails I've Hiked: Half Dome, Yosemite National Park

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Half Dome cables, Yosemite National Park/Rick Deutsch

The last pitch to the top of Half Dome is an intimidating one/Rick Deutsch

Most avid hikers know Half Dome. In fact, as the signature landmark for Yosemite National Park, its image is recognized worldwide. It’s even on the 2005 U.S. quarter. From late-May to early-October, visitors can attempt this extremely strenuous 16-mile round-trip day hike. The main challenge is the nearly one mile vertical climb from the valley. Then there’s the final 425 feet, aided by a 45-degree inclined cable banister.

The trail begins in the eastern part of the Yosemite Valley at Happy Isles. A mellow 40-minute walk on asphalt begins your day. The Merced River flows next to you at the beginning of your trek. You’ll see baby strollers and high heels on this warm-up leg. The often damp and strenuous Mist Trail then takes you to the Vernal Fall overlook. This is a perfectly symmetric 300-foot high waterfall. A similar stretch leads up to Nevada Fall, a 600-foot photo op. By now, the crowd thins out. A peaceful walk though the flat Little Yosemite Valley takes you to the forested switchbacks heading to the Half Dome rock itself.

After seven miles from the start, you arrive at Sub Dome, at the shoulder of Half Dome. This is an often unmentioned challenge of 400 tight, twisting granite steps. Once you conquer that, you next face the famous cables. Some reconsider the task at hand and turn around. An early start of the day will keep you ahead of the crowds that build before noon. If you continue on, you change from hiker to climber. Good boots, sticky gloves, and upper body strength are needed. It is hard, but the views are superb. The top covers about 17 football fields. You’ll see the sights of the Yosemite Valley almost 5,000 feet below.

The trip back down the trail to your lodging will not be much faster than your ascent. You are on a good trail, but it is wilderness and you’ll be navigating many uneven granite rocks and slippery gravel. Don’t be tempted to run down; your knees will explode.

With good boots, hiking poles, and water treatment gear, this hike can be done by anyone who trains for it. Education, preparation and motivation are essential. You’ll see folks from 8 to 80 on the trail; it’s fun for all ages. Pack a flashlight in case you are slow and don’t make it back before dark. Cell phones work up top if you need emergency help.

A lottery limits the number allowed to go up the cables. Rangers check permits to help control crowds. The lottery period is in March each year via recreation.gov. Currently, a $4.50 non-refundable application fee is required. Winners are announced in mid-April. Two-hundred-twenty-five permits per day are available for $8 per person if you win. To deter scalping, permits may not be sold by individuals.

If you don’t win the main lottery, the park makes available a minimum of 50 permits via a mini-lottery all summer. You need to apply two days before your desired hike. You will be notified the next day if you won. You may then hike the following day. If you get a wilderness permit, you can also request one of the 75 permits for this category. No permits are available in the park.

All permits are good only for the date awarded. If you cancel up to two days before your hike, you can get a refund of the permit cost. Other than that, there are no refunds for weather or other reasons. They cannot be exchanged for another day.

Climbing the cables at Half Dome, Yosemite National Park/Rick Deutsch

Climbing to the top of Half Dome is not for the meek or those afraid of heights/Rick Deutsch

The ranger at Sub Dome will not restrict you from going up the cables. You are in the wilderness, so YOU decide if it’s safe to go on. Assess the risk, and then deal with it. Keep off the rock if there is any weather or dampness. The trail is well-marked and very popular – just follow the people in front of you!

The top is 8,842-feet high and is generally well below any concerns for altitude sickness. But do not attempt this when there is thunder or lightning in the area. Half Dome gets hit every month of the year.

Rick Deutsch lives in San Jose, California. An avid adventure traveler, he has done the Half Dome Hike 41 times. He’s known as “Mr Half Dome.”  His book: One Best Hike: Yosemite's Half Dome is a great resource that will assist visitors in their preparation. Visit his comprehensive website at www.HikeHalfDome.com.

Comments

I would add that there often are people that don't have their full permit allotment (6)  at the permit check point.  If you don't have a permit but want a nice hike with the chance of climbing the cables, head on up anyway and the chances are pretty good you will be able to latch on to someone elses team.  


An excellent book, "Shattered Air" by Bob Magic is a great read for those who enjoyed the Half Dome Trip or plan to go. Lots of history,information on lightening, and the story of the hero of the book, a young women EMT who was involved in the rescue of several hikers caught in a lightening storm up on top of the Dome. 


I've been up three times, 1962, 1970, and 1993.  I found that the most disappointing thing about being on top is that Half Dome itself cannot be seen from its summit.  After watching videos and still pictures of the crowding on the cables during peak season, and learning of the red tape involved in applying for a permit via lottery, I would not object in the least bit if the cables were to be permanently removed and Half Dome forevermore managed as a most sacred place.  In fact, without a cable route to the top, I think the aesthetic mystique of Yosemite's most iconic geographic and geological feature would be enhanced.


Dear Rick,

How old are you now? Amazingly you still going and going strong. I need some inspiration, maybe I too will go up one day.


I climbed  half  dome  in my sixties a few years ago but last year we had to make do with walking down from Glacier Point because it is almost impossible for overseas visitors to get Half Dome permits


Why is it more difficult, Tony?  You can enter the lottery like anyone else.  They don't ask where you are from.  


While it lacks the "thrill" factor, it's still a great hike down to the Valley from Glacier Point. 


Not everyone gets 6 allotments.  Odds go down drastically when applying for more than 2 slots.  You still may be able to get someone to add you to their lottery win, but not very likely because most only have 2-4 slots.


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