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A Return To Apostle Islands National Lakeshore

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Sailing, or cruising on a tour boat, are popular ways to experience the Apostle Islands/NPS

The two of us recently returned to Apostle Islands National Lakeshore for the first time in many years.  It was a good time to visit northern Wisconsin, in light of the oppressive early September temperatures and humidity of south Georgia.  The trip turned out to be quite an adventure beginning at 2:30 a.m. on the morning of departure when we received a call from Delta that our flight had been cancelled. Then, little more than a day after reaching our destination, a nor'™easter pummeled Lake Superior and the surrounding region, causing everyone to batten down the hatches.  

The Skinny on Apostle Islands National Lakeshore

One of four national lakeshores administered by the National Park Service (two each on Lake Superior and Lake Michigan), Apostle Islands National Lakeshore covers 72,000 acres (30,000 of which are water) along northwestern Wisconsin's coast.  Eighty percent of the land area of the national lakeshore has been designated as wilderness.  

The major portion of the park consists of 21 islands that range in size from 165 acres to 10,000 acres, plus the surrounding waters off the Bayfield Peninsula.   A smaller section winds 12 miles around the peninsula'™s northwest shoreline along Lake Superior.  The lakeshore'™s NPS visitor center and administrative offices are in the old county courthouse in the small town of Bayfield.

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore was established in 1970 following years of campaigning by local residents interested in promoting tourism to a rugged area that once prospered through the harvesting of timber and fish, two resources that had been largely tapped out by the mid-1950s.  Proposals for a state or national park unit initially failed to gain traction due to the extensive logging that had taken place on both the mainland and islands.  By the 1960s, the trees had grown back and, combined with the persistence of Wisconsin Senator Gaylord Nelson, the issue of protecting the islands was reconsidered and approved.

All but one of the 22 Apostles, Madeline Island, the largest and only island with permanent residents, are included in the park.  It is also the only island accessible by vehicle via a ferry that departs the town of Bayfield every half hour from late June through early September.  Service is reduced during the spring and fall, while residents and visitors drive over ice in winter.  The island is home to a large state park and serves as a popular vacation spot with lodging, restaurants, shops, galleries, and campgrounds.

Historic lighthouses and sea caves are major attractions that draw visitors to the national lakeshore.  The first lighthouse was placed into service on Michigan Island in 1857 (and abandoned a year later).   Eight additional lighthouses were constructed on the islands prior to 1900.  The park'™s sea caves are arches and chambers that have been carved out of the cliffs of the sandstone  by waves and the freezing and thawing that takes place in this harsh climate.  During winter, dripping water inside the chambers freezes resulting in dazzling icicles that convert the sea caves into glistening ice caves.

Activities at the Lakeshore

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Devils Island features not only a wonderful lighthouse, but sea caves cut by Lake Superior/Jim Burnett

As you might expect, the majority of the lakeshore'™s activities are associated with the waters of Lake Superior, the largest, cleanest, and clearest of the Great Lakes.  People visit Apostle Islands National Lakeshore to fish, boat, scuba dive, and kayak.  Hunting is permitted from Labor Day through mid-May.

For first-time visitors, the best method of exploring the Apostles is the 3 ½-hour Grand Tour Cruise that departs the Bayfield dock from mid-May to mid-October at 10 a.m. daily.  The cruise offers a view of each of the Apostles, although some are seen from a distance.  Particularly interesting are a close view of the sea caves and the lighthouses at Devils Island and Raspberry Island.  A similar sunset cruise leaves late each afternoon from late June through early October. 

Visitors can also take an afternoon glass-bottom boat tour, a Raspberry Island Lighthouse Keeper'™s Tour, or a hiker shuttle to Stockton Island.   Concessionaire Apostle Islands Cruises operates each of these trips that depart from the Bayfield dock. 

Camping at the Lakeshore

Fifty-four primitive campsites are spread among 19 of the national lakeshore'™s 21 islands, with another on the mainland.  A permit fee is charged for camping.  Sites may be reserved in person or by phone, but permits must be picked up at the NPS Bayfield visitor center prior to camping.  These sites generally have a picnic table, fire grate, bear-proof storage, and are near an outdoor privy.

In addition to primitive sites, the NPS has established camping zones on 17 of the islands for individuals who prefer the quiet and privacy of backcountry camping.  Only one camping party of up to five individuals with two tents is permitted in each of the identified zones that have no facilities. Backcountry camping requires a permit available through the NPS visitor center.

Our Visit to the Apostle Islands

Our own visit to the lakeshore consisted of three nights and two full days in Bayfield.  During the first day of absolutely perfect weather we first visited the NPS visitor center where we watched a video and gathered information from NPS Ranger Neil Howk, who appeared to know every detail about the park.  Following that, we took the3 ½-hour Grand Tour Cruise that departed from the Bayfield Dock.  The boat had an enclosed lower deck and an exposed upper deck.  The lower deck would be handy during a day with wind, cold, or drizzle, but it provided limited views for passengers.  During our cruise the boat was nearly full and most riders would have preferred the upper deck, whose seats filled first.   The cruise was informative and fun, especially from the upper deck.

Weather for our second day was expected to be grim, with a forecast of heavy rain and strong winds.  The prediction was spot on. The wind began picking up during the evening, and by morning the area was smack in the middle of a monster nor'™easter.  The saying in these parts is, 'œThe lake is boss,' and on this day there was no doubt the lake was indeed the boss.  Waves crashed over the shoreline and rain came in torrents, mostly horizontally.  Flags left on their poles flapped so violently it appeared they would shred.  In truth, we found the day quite exciting in much the same manner as when we took a winter trip to Yellowstone National Park and a monster huge blizzard closed the park.   Still, the inclement weather necessitated a change in strategy.

We had been scheduled for the ferry to Madeline Island where we would spend the day, but the weather resulted in all boats remaining in port.  Thus, plans were altered and we took a day trip to neighboring Ashland, where we visited the Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center, an excellent inter-governmental facility supported by the U.S. Forest Service, the National Park Service, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and the Wisconsin Historical Society.  Here visitors can view exhibits, gather information, and walk along boardwalk trails.  It is quite an impressive building and certainly worth a visit.

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Starry nights over Apostle Islands National Lakeshore have been used to create prints to raise funds for the lakeshore's friends group.

Following several hours at the visitor center we toured the town of Ashland, home to over a dozen large outdoor murals portraying the town'™s colorful history.  Then it was back to Bayfield'™s NPS visitor center, where one of us was fortunate enough to catch the lakeshore'™s acting superintendent, Tom Urlich, whose home base is Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, where he serves as deputy superintendent.  This was his third day as acting superintendent while substituting for the regular superintendent, who is currently acting superintendent at Everglades National Park. 

Asked about major issues he had discovered during his initial days on the job, the acting superintendent replied, 'œThe logistics involved in fulfilling the NPS mission here. 'œ  By this he mentioned the distances and difficulties involved in getting to and taking care of the park'™s 21 islands.  On this day of the nor'™easter, it was easy to see his point.

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Comments

Thank you, David and Kay, for a great report on one of the most enjoyable parks I've ever visited.  It's not just the park, but the town of Bayfield and other surrounding villages.  The people there are friendly and laid back, making the entire experience enjoyable and peaceable.

Just one note, camping is very limited on the mainland in the park.  But every town has one or two campgrounds owned and maintained by the city.  I checked out most of them when I was there and they were all top notch -- except for the one at the casino on the reservation west of Bayfield.

If any of Traveler's readers have not been to Apostle Islands --- they don't know what they're missing!


You didn't mention that the Apostles are a sea kayaker's nirvana.  From an easy trip up the west coast to view the mainland sea caves to the slightly more adventurous trip out to the caves and light house on Sand Island; all the way to multi day trips to multiple islands and the spectacular caves on Devil's Island there is something for every level of sea kayaker. 

 VHF radios and self rescue skills are very important in the area.  The lake is unforgiving and an eye must be kept on the weather.  

The outfitter in Bayfield is excellent and most helpful in putting together guided trips.


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