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3 Days In "The Place," Acadia National Park

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Bass Harbor Light, Acadia National Park/Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

History has known “Acadia” by many names. Some believe the word derives from the Arcadia region in Greece and that, over time, the “r” in the reference dropped off. Others suggest the label came from the word “L’Acadie,” which potentially stems from the French version of a Wabanaki Indian word meaning “the place.” The first European settlers to Mount Desert Island may have also translated this term as “heaven on Earth.” The National Park Service website refers to Acadia as “The Crown Jewel of the Atlantic Coast.”

By any name, Acadia’s glacially-carved mountains, serene lakes and ponds, pristine forests, sand and cobble beaches, jagged granite headlands, abundant wildlife, and historical remnants attract more than three million visitors a year, all who come to find their place in “the place.” Are you ready to find yours in “heaven on Earth”?

Day 1

If you are visiting from out of state, fly into the Portland International Jetport or Bangor International Airport. The Portland airport requires a three-hour drive to Acadia, but offers more connections than Bangor (which is an attractive 90-minute drive to the park). Rental cars are available from both airports.

Once in Maine, head down east to Mount Desert Island, which hosts the largest contiguous part of Acadia National Park. Swing by the Hulls Cove Visitor Center to pay your park entry fee and to pick up a park map, tide charts, and the Island Explorer park shuttle schedule. Then, check out Bar Harbor, a lively town serving as an ideal base for your visit. Ample lodging for all budgets exists, while nearby Northeast Harbor, Southwest Harbor, and Trenton (on the mainland) offer additional options.

If you prefer to sleep under the stars, reserve a campsite at one of the park’s two campgrounds— Seawall or Blackwoods. Reserve your spot early, though, as Acadia sees its highest number of visitors in July and August. Bar Harbor restaurants tempt even the most discriminating taste buds, so grab lunch here before venturing out.

The Porcupine Islands are anchored in Frenchman Bay to the east of Bar Harbor / Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

If the tide is low, head to the Bar Island Tidal Path on the north side of town and take the 0.6-mile stroll across the exposed sand bar to this spruce-covered isle.

Otherwise, start your trip where the park began, at Sieur de Monts. In 1909, George B. Dorr purchased 10 acres of land and donated it to the Hancock County Trustees of Public Reservations. In 1916, President Woodrow Wilson proclaimed this tract, along with 6,000 additional acres across MDI, as the “Sieur de Monts National Monument.” (In 1919, the ever-expanding park became the “Lafayette National Park” and then, finally, in 1929, “Acadia National Park.”) Visit the Sieur de Monts freshwater spring and the monument to Dorr, which sits behind the Nature Center. Natural history lovers should also stop by the nearby Abbe Museum (admission fee required).

Acquaint yourself with Acadia’s flora, especially such summer wildflowers as blue flag iris, pitcher plant, and aster, by sauntering through the Wild Gardens of Acadia. Then stretch your legs on the Jesup Path on the west side of the garden. Here you can see the differences in growth before and after the “Great Fire of 1947,” with the surviving hemlocks on the west side of the boardwalk contrasting with the newer birch maples, and other deciduous trees on the east side.

Among the dozens of botanical specimens that grow in the Wild Gardens of Acadia is sheep laurel / Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

Then travel to Eagle Lake for a short saunter along its northern shoreline to watch the sun set and to catch a glimpse of the mountains you’ll stand on top of tomorrow.

Day 2

Rise and shine early! Drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain to watch the sun rise with a view from the highest point not only in Acadia (1,530 feet elevation), but also of any landform along the Atlantic seaboard north of Rio de Janiero in Brazil. But put on warm clothes and plan to arrive at least an hour prior to the sunrise to get a parking spot.

Get your blood pumping on the North Ridge, South Ridge, or Cadillac-Dorr trails before descending the mountain to drive the one-way Park Loop Road. On the Ocean Drive stretch, dip your toes in the Atlantic Ocean at Sand Beach, listen to pounding waves at Thunder Hole, and marvel at Otter Cliff’s panoramic view. Thrill-seekers who do not fear heights should try their hand at the Precipice Trail (often closed until mid-August due to nesting peregrine falcons) or the Beehive Trail, two of Acadia’s classic ladder trails.

Continue to Jordan Pond, where a delectable lunch awaits at the Jordan Pond House (Reservations recommended). If weather permits, request a seat on the lawn to enjoy the stunning view of Jordan Pond and The Bubbles, two prominent mountains looming across the pond, as you dine on traditional popovers.

Walk off lunch on the easy-going 3.5-mile Jordan Pond Shore Path or follow the carriage road along Jordan Stream to see the Cobblestone Bridge, the oldest carriage road bridge of 17 built by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. (in 1917)—and the only one constructed with cobble.

End the day with a 0.5-mile one-way hike on the Bubble Rock Trail. The 400-foot climb pays off with not only aerial views of Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake, but also a close-up encounter with Bubble Rock, a 15,000-year old glacial erratic sitting precariously on the edge of the cliff.

Day 3

At times Bubble Rock almost seems to float in the fog at Acadia National Park. It can be found along the aptly named Bubble Rock Trail / Colleen Miniuk- Sperry

From 1913 to 1940, Rockefeller Jr. developed 45 miles of pedestrian- and horse-friendly carriage roads on MDI. To taste this history, book a horse-drawn carriage tour with Carriages of Acadia.

Or rent a bike in Bar Harbor or put on your hiking shoes to explore on your own. For the biggest bang for your buck, ride or walk the 3.9-mile Hadlock Brook Loop clockwise, stopping to see the Brown Mountain Gatehouse before traveling over the Hadlock Brook, Hemlock, and Waterfall carriage road bridges.

Refresh yourself afterward with lunch at Abel’s Lobster Pound, where you’ll be treated to fresh seafood and a breathtaking view of Somes Sound.

At low tide, wander along the easy 0.7-mile Wonderland Trail to access arguably the best tidepools on the island. Otherwise, try the 1.3-mile moderately difficult loop on the Ship Harbor Trail for wildflowers and coastal scenes.

Finish off your visit at the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse. Follow the trail to the east of the parking area and down the steps to catch the best views. As the sun sets, reflect on your glorious visit to “heaven on Earth” and start planning for your return to “the place.”

Stop at the Jordan Pond House for popovers and you’ll likely find yourself out on the lawn staring across the pond to the two rounded “Bubbles” on the far shore / Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

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Comments

Thank you, Colleen, for a wonderful portrait of a place I hope to visit someday.  You made me want to get there even more.


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