Elk Mountain Campground, Wind Cave National Park/Kurt Repanshek

Seventy-five degrees at midday, no noticeable humidity, Northern flickers (and countless other bird species) calling in the background in their seasonal courting ritual. And five deer, working on losing their winter coats, moseying past my campsite while I worked on this story. 

Add the breathtaking, undulating setting of the Black Hills, the many vacant campsites surrounding me, and it’s hard not to argue that the Elk Mountain Campground at Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota is perfect.

(Did I mention the free firewood?)

At least it was for me for three days leading up to the Memorial Day Weekend. When I had heard that the 63-site campground rarely if ever fills, I figured there had to be a reason. I envisioned a depressing place with more dirt than grass, direct sun with no trees for shelter or to slow the wind, vault toilets that aren’t regularly cleaned, highway traffic speeding by. 

None of that is here.

Located about a half-mile north of the park’s visitor center and the departure point for its nice handful of cave tours, the campground is an anomaly compared to the many park campgrounds I’ve sampled. The grass here in spring/early summer is so lush they mow a footprint out of it for each campsite. 

The campground contains four loops, with the "A" loop being restricted to tents. Most sites there offer a level, well-draining tent pad (I tested the draining aspect through a night of thunderstorms), aluminum picnic table, and fire ring -- a pretty new looking ring with clean (e.g., not rusted or encrusted) grill grate at that. And striking Ponderosa pines to provide sun protection and ambience.

The restrooms, which are scattered throughout the loops, have flush toilets and cold-water sink during the prime summer season, and there’s also a larger cold-water sink for cleaning up dishes. 

Each loop has garbage and recycling containers, and well-placed water pumps that flow with water (said to be potable, but with a horrible taste when I was there. The camp host said he'd ask maintenance to look into it. Ok, one demerit.)

While a low, pine-studded ridge separates the tent loop from the others, one morning one RVer fired his rig up at 5:30 a.m., and the sound couldn't be missed. So much for quiet hours.

Still, in these days of crowded national parks and constant jockeying for a campsite or having to reserve a spot six months out, the Elk Mountain Campground is hidden gem. And it actually can do double duty for you, as nearby Jewel Cave National Monument (a 45-minute drive away) has no campground.